I’m elated to bring you the much-anticipated news from our July expedition to Q’eros. This was one of my most challenging trips — yet it was by far the dearest, because I was accompanied by my cousin, Jason, and his daughters Hailey and Savvy. The girls spearheaded the fundraiser for the Sanitation and Solar Showers Project in February and within a matter of five months, these amazing young ladies raised $55,000 THANKS TO YOU to finance toilets and solar showers for 59 families living in three communities — a feat Bertha and I couldn’t even have imagined possible five months ago. I was excited for my nieces to meet the Q’ero communities and receive their gratitude for the successful project.
Every expedition to Q’eros includes risks and difficulties. As the leader, I wanted to shield my team from any anxiety and discomfort; I had backup plans for all my backup plans. But the mountains always seem to ask something of you that you didn’t know you had to give.
In the wise words of my cousin, Jason, we found the patience and ingenuity to calmly adapt to the unexpected: a lost passport, a medical situation requiring immediate attention, and a seasonal flu that struck all of us — leaving us congested, fevered, and sleep deprived. And through it all we grew very close, we took care of each other and kept our focus on the objectives of the trip.
On day 3, after missing our tour of Machu Picchu to take Hailey to an emergency medical clinic, we celebrated news that a longtime donor would fund the remaining $4,000 needed to reach our goal. And that’s how the entire trip would go: presenting us with overwhelming challenges one moment, moving us closer to our goal the next.
First Stop Ocongate
To give you a sense of what Hailey and Savvy went through to get to Q’eros, we first had to drive 4 hours to a tiny frontier town of Ocongate, stopping along the way to buy Coca leaves for the meetings and bread for the children.
Trying to sleep in the truck because we all have the flu.
Buying bread, lots of bread.
Once we arrived in Ocongate, we had work to do. Bertha retrieved our expedition gear from storage and purchased supplies. We loaded all the equipment for the projects that could fit in the back of the truck. We purchased oxygen canisters in case of altitude sickness. That night in Ocongate, at 11,590 feet, we’d get a sense of how everyone would handle the altitude.
We loaded the truck with 60 buckets to donate in Q’eros as the finishing touch on the projects.
The Dirt Road to Quico
Next day we drove on mostly dirt roads for 2.5 hours. Our first stay in Q’eros was the community of Quico, which features easy access by 4X4 and lower elevation at only 12,200 ft which would allow us to acclimate before hiking into Yanaruma, a trek that climbs up to 15,400 ft.
Quico was excluded from the Sanitation and Solar Shower Project this year because a water project planned by the Municipality of Paucartambo to bring running water, septic treatment systems, and bathroom facilities was stalled by the government. The people of Quico begged us to consider them for a Solar Shower project next year once they obtain running water and bathrooms facilities — a project we see as a worthy partnership.
The Quico authorities welcomed us to their community and gifted us with colorful “chuspas”
Cesar, the president of Quico, honored Hailey by gifting her with his hat, a rare gesture of high respect.
We got right to business meeting with the entire community, then purchased textiles from every weaver. With so many weavers, young and old, it took the six of us until dark to complete the purchases. Emilio, our chef, prepared us hot soups and beverages to warm us from the evening chill.
Purchasing is a long, involved process, but it’s very rewarding. You can find our beautiful new inventory at tribalstore.org.
The Anticipated Hike to Yanaruma
The anticipated hike to Yanaruma turned into an unanticipated ride to Yanaruma. It turns out trying to breathe at altitude while struggling with throat and nasal congestion leads to a sleepless night. Even Bertha, our fearless leader who always prefers to hike over driving, was struggling to stand up that morning. We needed to evaluate the project in Yanaruma, and then we needed to make a difficult decision — should we press on, or should we go home?
Even with our puffy eyes and stuffy faces, you can tell how excited we are about how wonderful the project turned out!
Fraida proudly shows us her shower and outhouse, complete with running water and a wash basin.
We do get some hiking in, as we walk from house to house to inspect each unit. Simply walking at this altitude is very tiring.
The president of Yanaruma, Froilan Gerillo Mamani, gives a speech and asks to take a photo with him and his wife in front of their functional outhouse.
Savvy and Hailey distribute buckets of sawdust (a very important element of the composting process) to each family, formally handing the project over to the people of Yanaruma.
Composting toilets require carbon-rich materials, like sawdust, to break down the waste into a soil-like compost.
The first buckets of sawdust are ceremoniously received.
Here Hailey demonstrates where the sawdust is stored next to the toilet. Instead of flushing, a scoop of sawdust is thrown in with the waste. Savvy confirms that the shower water is piping hot!
It’s customary for Heart Walk Foundation to visit the schools and the teachers on each visit to inquire about their needs. Savvy and Hailey had the honor this year to pass out bread to all the children and teachers.
Children in Q’eros look forward to this rare treat.
After visiting every home in Yanaruma and evaluating the facilities, we made the difficult decision to leave the mountain and recover in a comfortable hotel before flying home.
Watch and “join” Hailey and Savvy in Q’eros. Come along!
Returning Home with a Grateful Heart
I can’t tell you how proud I am of my nieces, for the hard work they put in to get here, and for their strength to endure the unexpected challenges. We had a lot to process upon returning home, moments of great discomfort, and moments of great joy and connection. Even though we didn’t get to see the progress in Ccochamarca and Hapu, Bertha informs us the project is 75% complete and the people are happy and grateful. And it’s all THANKS TO YOU, everyone who joined this campaign. You moved us forward. You gave us momentum. You helped us make the impossible possible.
Urpillay Sonqollay! My most heartfelt thanks to you.
“I just want to thank you so much for the opportunity to work with Heart Walk and your team. This trip truly was remarkable and I wouldn’t change anything! I hope you know that your work has made such a lasting impact on the Q’ero people, and me — just by witnessing it.”
Hailey Madsen
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